Introduction

After an unforgettable journey exploring Albania’s breathtaking coastline, rugged mountains, and rich history, it is time to return to Tirana. However, before heading straight back, a stop in Gjirokastra—a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Albania’s most fascinating cities—is a must. Known as “The Stone City,” Gjirokastra is famous for its well-preserved Ottoman-era architecture, cobblestone streets, and historic castle.

The drive from Ksamil or Saranda to Tirana takes approximately five hours, making Gjirokastra the perfect halfway stop to stretch your legs, explore, and experience one more side of Albania’s rich culture.

Morning: Journey from Ksamil/Saranda to Gjirokastra

Leaving the Albanian Riviera

Start your journey early in the morning to make the most of your stop in Gjirokastra. The drive from Ksamil or Saranda to Gjirokastra takes about 1.5 to 2 hours, offering scenic views of rolling hills, olive groves, and traditional villages along the way.

The road leading to Gjirokastra winds through Drino Valley, a fertile region surrounded by mountains, providing plenty of picturesque views before reaching the city. As you approach, you will immediately notice the distinctive stone-roofed houses perched on the hillside—a signature feature of Gjirokastra’s landscape.

Midday: Exploring Gjirokastra – The Stone City

Gjirokastra Castle – A Fortress with a View

Begin your visit at Gjirokastra Castle, one of the largest and most imposing castles in Albania. Perched high above the city, the fortress provides panoramic views of the entire valley.

Inside the castle, you can explore:

  • The Clock Tower, offering stunning viewpoints over the historic old town.
  • The National Armaments Museum, displaying weapons from different historical periods.
  • The American Spy Plane, a relic from the Cold War era that symbolizes Albania’s former communist isolation.
  • Underground prison cells, which were used during the communist period for political prisoners.

Walking through the castle gives you a sense of the city’s deep-rooted history, from Ottoman rule to the Cold War era.

Wander Through the Old Bazaar

After visiting the castle, stroll through Gjirokastra’s Old Bazaar, a charming market square filled with local artisan shops, handmade crafts, and traditional cafes. The bazaar has been the heart of the city for centuries and is the perfect place to buy unique souvenirs such as:

  • Handwoven carpets and textiles
  • Locally produced olive oil and honey
  • Handmade silver jewelry and copper crafts

The bazaar’s narrow, cobblestone streets and Ottoman-era buildings make it feel like stepping back in time.

Visit the Ethnographic Museum

For a deeper look into Gjirokastra’s cultural heritage, visit the Ethnographic Museum, which is housed in the childhood home of Albania’s former dictator, Enver Hoxha. The museum showcases traditional Albanian household items, furniture, and clothing, giving visitors an authentic look at how wealthy families in Gjirokastra lived during the Ottoman period.

Lunch at a Traditional Restaurant

Gjirokastra is known for its unique local cuisine, with dishes influenced by both Ottoman and Balkan flavors. Some must-try specialties include:

  • Qifqi – Traditional rice balls flavored with herbs, unique to Gjirokastra.
  • Pasha Qofte – A delicious meatball soup served with yogurt and lemon.
  • Oshaf – A traditional dessert made with dried figs and milk.

Some of the best places to enjoy an authentic meal in Gjirokastra include Restaurant Tradicional Odaja, Taverna Kuka, and Barrels Restaurant, all of which offer stunning views and traditional dishes.

Afternoon: The Drive Back to Tirana

Scenic Drive Through Southern Albania

After a fulfilling stop in Gjirokastra, it is time to continue the journey back to Tirana. The drive takes approximately 3.5 hours, passing through:

  • Tepelena, a historic town famous for its connection to Ali Pasha of Tepelena, one of Albania’s most powerful Ottoman rulers.
  • Fier, home to Apollonia, an ancient Greek and Roman archaeological site (optional stop if time allows).

The road back to Tirana offers beautiful countryside views, with rivers, mountains, and small villages along the way.

Evening: Arriving in Tirana

Relaxing in Albania’s Capital

After a long drive, you will arrive back in Tirana, where you can either rest for the night or enjoy a relaxing evening in the city. Depending on your energy levels, you might:

  • Take a walk around Blloku, Tirana’s most vibrant district with cafes and restaurants.
  • Unwind at Skanderbeg Square, where you can take in the lively atmosphere of Albania’s capital.
  • Enjoy a final dinner at one of Tirana’s top restaurants, reflecting on your incredible journey through Albania.

Conclusion

The return journey from Ksamil to Tirana via Gjirokastra is the perfect way to end an Albanian adventure, allowing you to experience one last historic city before heading back to the capital.

From the stunning hilltop views of Gjirokastra Castle to the rich culture of the Old Bazaar, this stop provides a final taste of Albania’s deep heritage. Whether enjoying traditional food, exploring ancient fortresses, or simply wandering the charming streets, Gjirokastra leaves a lasting impression on all who visit.

As you arrive back in Tirana, you will have completed a journey through Albania’s diverse landscapes, experiencing everything from mountains and beaches to ancient ruins and vibrant cities. This trip is a testament to Albania’s beauty, history, and unique character, making it a destination that continues to surprise and inspire.